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Construction
The wine cellar
is part of the basement of Casa Grande and consists
of two rooms with double vault doors. It has
no connection with the rest of the basement,
as originally planned by Julia Morgan and W.R.
Hearst. On June 14, 1922, Morgan wrote to Hearst:
"The basement purposely has no connections between
sections - for fire and thief protection ...
Work is well under way on the basement excavating
- but is slow as the charges of dynamite have
to be small!" Hearst replied on July 8th: "I
like the basement layout very much and appreciate
the value of having the different parts of the
basement separated by fireproof walls." As additions
to Casa Grande were made, the basements were
enlarged and eventually more than 9000 square
feet of separate basement rooms were created,
most used as storage vaults.
Located below the north end of the Assembly
Room, the wine cellar is inconvenient relative
to the kitchen. However, the cellar's placement
was probably dictated by the need for an even
cool temperature, more easily maintained on
the north side of the building. Ideally, wines
should be stored at 45 - 60 degrees Fahrenheit,
as a higher temperature can cause the wine to
mature too rapidly. Wine changes as it ages
and has a definite lifetime, longer for most
red wines than for whites. According to housekeeper
Ann Miller, Hearst did have some type of cooling
equipment in the wine cellar, but there has
been no temperature cooling since the Department
of Parks and Recreation took over. Wine is stored
on its side so that the cork does not dry out
and allow air to enter the bottle. Exposure
to air will spoil wine, although liqueurs and
spirits are usually not affected. Another concern
in storing wine is light, an excessive amount
of which makes the wine taste musty or flat.
The iron doors were installed as early as 1924.
Mr. Hearst's secretary, Joe Willicombe, wrote
to Julia Morgan in August of 1924: "Mr. Hearst
told me to tell Mr. Rossi [the construction
superintendent] to put the iron doors on the
wine vault. Mr. Hearst wants to lock the vault
and take the keys with him. He does not consider
the wooden doors any protection against possible
thievery." By all accounts, the wine cellar
doors were always kept locked; as Hearst employee
Wilfred Lyons jokingly said in an interview:
"Mr. Hearst would lock up his cellar and you
couldn't get into it. I mean even the butler
had to order ahead."
Prohibition
(1920 - 1933)
The Eighteenth
Amendment prohibiting the manufacture, sale
or transportation of liquor in the United States
had taken effect in 1920 and was not to be repealed
until 1933, but that seemed to give little pause
to Hearst's wine cellar plans. It does explain,
however, his insistence on locked iron doors.
Throughout the Prohibition era, he continued
to serve alcohol to his guests. His editorial
stance was for temperance but against Prohibition,
because it was unenforceable and aided organized
crime. In 1929 his newspapers conducted a nationwide
contest with a $25,000 award for the best plan
for the repeal of Prohibition. He wrote: "I
consider the Eighteenth Amendment not only the
most flagrant violation of the basic American
principle of personal liberty that has ever
been imposed on the American public, but the
most complete failure as a temperance measure
that has ever been conceived and put into impractical
operation."
The Drinkers
Hearst himself
was a moderate drinker. His son William Randolph
Jr., says: "he never touched Scotch or gin,
but enjoyed a glass of wine or beer with most
of his meals. After dinner I don't remember
ever seeing him drink brandy, but he had a sweet
tooth for liqueurs like Cointreau, Benedictine
and creme de menthe." Bill Jr., also wrote:
"Evenings would begin with cocktails before
dinner - whether it was a weekend party or a
big birthday gala. Guests usually limited themselves
to one drink. Pop did not like hard liquor or
heavy drinking. He put the word out that no
guests were to bring their own booze to the
place. But some did and got drunk. He would
have someone ask them to leave, and they would
be driven to the train station at San Luis Obispo."
This was all
rather hard on Hearst's sons and the heavily
drinking Hollywood crowd; it was especially
difficult for Marion Davies whose tendency to
overindulge was well known. As the actor David
Niven put it, "the wine would flow like glue
during the meal." On the other hand, the wine
that did flow was memorable. The author and
gourmet Ludwig Bemelmans wrote critically, "The
food was mediocre and badly served." But then
he continued, "The Moselle wine was superb."
The Wines
Although San
Luis Obispo County is today a wine-producing
area, it was not so in W.R. Hearst's time. The
many grapes grown in the Pergola area were used
for eating only, and, as far as is known, Hearst
never expressed a desire to make wine, although
he was playing the role of gentleman farmer
in almost every other aspect. Today, fine California
wine is considered the equal of any in the world,
but in Hearst's time the finest wine was from
France and Germany. This is reflected in Hearst's
wine collection. There were relatively few California
wines; the bulk was from the Alsace, Bordeaux,
and Burgundy regions in France and the Rhine
and Moselle regions in Germany.
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